"family" wine emerges in MA market

A few months ago I discovered a wine bearing my family name, Rethore, would be coming to market here in Massachusetts. Tra-la! I had my father do a bit of more specific digging (we knew we were French, but...) and learned my family is actually from the Loire Valley; long story short, it is possible the folks who make this wine are, in fact, cousins. (See! I knew it was in my blood...) The Loire Valley is lesser known for its Gamay wines. (Recall Beaujolais in Burgundy is the appellation in France where these wines are at their best.) The Loire is better known for Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and, for the reds, Cabernet Franc.  Yet, Rethore-Davy has crafted a Gamay for the red-wine-drinking public.

Finally landing on our shores, I had the opportunity to try the Rethore-Davy 2007 Gamay last Friday night. And it was exactly as it should be: bubblegum-flavored, tart and a bit high in acid. Not my favorite grape, that Gamay. But it is wicked cheap! For about $11 those who enjoy a solid expression of Gamay can enjoy the Rethore-Davy here in Massachusetts and possibly elsewhere in the US.

A bit anticlimactic, I have to admit. But cool nonetheless. Perhaps one day soon I'll get to try their Sauvignon Blanc? (That one seemed to get a solid review from a fellow blogger.) Here's hoping!

Is wine in your lineage? Have you had the chance to taste an offering?

France in wine-lights this week

Tuesday night's local Taste of Somerville event went off without a hitch! Myriad folks from the area popped over to the (perhaps surprising venue of the) Holiday Inn on Washington Street to taste the wares of this greater Boston city. My colleague and I were proud to be one of the few (three, we think) establishments pouring a selection of wines for citizens to sample. While accolades abounded for each one on offer, it was hard not to notice the many pleasantly surprised faces of those who sampled one of my favorite Rose's of the season:  2008 Saint Andre Figuiere Rose from Provence, France. Why such surprise? Well, as much as we talk about it here at Pour Favor, it's one of those things where seeing, or tasting, is believing. Great rose is DRY, crisp and refreshing! We were not pouring the sweet pink stuff from California, also known as White Zinfandel. No, indeed! And, not one person (old, young or in between) was disappointed.  Our mission was accomplished.

Meanwhile, back on the proverbial farm, the Powers That Be in Brussels determined European rose production standards would remain. What's this, you ask?

Recall a few months ago we discussed headlines indicating European officials were attempting to change legislation such that the blending of red and white wines would be permitted in the production of rose wines.  Well, if you've been holding your breath in protest, you can go ahead and let it on out! This week the European Agriculture Commissioner, Mariann Fischer Boel, announced she had changed her mind. Advocacy groups had made their point: the blending of reds and whites would compromise the very essence of what makes (French) rose special - being made from old red grapes. I am so relieved.

Now to see if the French will overturn their ruling against outdoor alcohol consumption as of July 31st....

On a more somber 'French news' note, I am saddened to convey the passing of Johnny Hugel, the famous Alsatian winemaker/advocate. Open a bottle of Hugel this weekend and toast to a marvelous man. Afterall, even if you never knew the role he played in crafting today's Alsatian wine world, he is a man of great insight saying, "'People who like wine are nicer people than those who do not like wine."  I like to think that's true. ;)

Do you have fond memories drinking Hugel? 'Tis the season for these tremendous Alsatian whites!

Episode 1: the love affair between food and wine

Last weekend my "Supper Swap" group met again for the first time in a while. (We try to meet at least quarterly, picking a theme to inspire our respective culinary adventures for the night and otherwise help us break out of any cooking ruts we may have fallen into.) As we sat around the table discussing our "Summer-is-coming" dishes and what changes we would make to the recipes, I realized I have gotten away from discussing food more specifically in relation to wine on the Pour Favor blog.  I've been talking wine first, then food. But most of the time we work the other way around, right? You pick your meal or what you are going to chef, and then select a bottle to accompany it. Food is important.

I mean, yeah, there is the whole sustenance factor, lol. But in seriousness, wine is meant to be enjoyed with food. There are certainly some that excel on their own; but for the most part winemakers hope their wares grace your table and, ideally, take on a whole new meaning when matched with a wonderful meal.

This isn't to say we should always strive for the perfect pairing. Nonsense! Rather, we should be mindful that the components which make a wine a wine - fruit, acidity and tannin - are elements that, by nature, are designed for food. On that note, let's start talking about the union of food and wine over the next few weeks, shall we?

Supper Swap dish #1:  Watermelon, mint salad.

Apparently this dish was inspired by the Mustard Seed restaurant out in Davis, CA. Now their (online) recipe calls for cucumber, watermelon, mint and feta - but my friend recalled it with red onion, watermelon, mint and feta. Either which way you slice it, this salad was terrific. A true summer crowd pleaser. Fresh, healthy and delicious. And there is literally nothing more to it than dicing up the ingredients and tossing them together.

What wine would pair? This dish is incredibly versatile. But my instinct is to go for a terrific, DRY, rose - still OR sparkling! Rose tends to have terrific strawberry, raspberry or watermelon characteristics. One with more minerality (typically French offerings from areas such as Provence) or a more spice-nuanced flavor profile would be best because of the mint, bite of onion and slight richness to the feta.  You can certainly try one with more fruit-forward flavors.  But the watermelon on its own is so delicious, I'd want something nuanced in other ways to draw out it's more subtle, secondary (et. al.) flavors.

White varietals to consider would be Spanish Albarino or Txakoli or lesser known/sought French offerings like Muscadet, Gros Manseng and Picpoul.  Sauvignon Blanc might be an easier grab-and-go choice that would certainly work.  Simply think crisp, refreshing, minerality.

Prefer red? Try a fruity, ligher-styled, dry summer red. You don't want to upstage the juicy watermelon on your plate!

What wine(s) would you pick for this dish?

Minervois, a god-like wine

I was channeling Disney and Belle a couple of weeks ago. Today I envision a Greek god named Minervois. Except the name  "Minervois", a small sub-region of the Languedoc in France,  actually comes from the village of Minerve. Who knew? Because when I re-tasted an old favorite from this area, I wasn't just pleased with the result, it was a near-spiritual experience - for just $13 (retail). Backing up a touch, Minervois offers the world reasonably priced reds typically comprised of Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, perhaps with some Carignan or Cinsault mixed in for good measure. It depends. It's an experimental part of the world down there. Some wines are purely easy quaffing selections. But others are quite memorable. Typically the latter come from low-yield vines (remember, this means concentrated fruit flavors) in the rocky hills above the plateau.

The 2006 vintage of Chateau Coupes Roses Minervois La Bastide was a wine I first tasted nearly two years ago. I remember it having very floral notes and a tannic structure. It was very good, but it needed either food or a few breaths of fresh air to come alive and loosen up a bit. Perhaps both. Several weeks ago I happened to retaste this same vintage. Holy canolies. The extra bottle time served this wine well! If you can get your hand on a bottle (or several) I highly recommend it because it is tasting out beautifully right now. I saw the imaginary god Minervois, I'm not kidding.

To paint you a clearer picture, the Bastide is comprised of Grenache and Carignan with a touch of sultry Syrah. Today I find those same enticing floral aromatics from two years ago, with violets and juniper coming through most clearly. Tasting it is also like taking a dip in my spice rack! Sage and marjoram flow on the palate, with accents of resin and other earthy notes chiming in. It's the lush, fleshy- smooth, velvety blanket of black raspberry, plum and strawberry fruit that leaves you breathless, however.  The wine finishes with mouthwatering acidity, like a little wave washing onto the shore.

Imagine my delight when I popped over to Aquitaine in the South End last week and discovered this wine is available by the glass. It really is a savory wonder, absolutely delightful on its own and, of course, a good match for their beet salad, steak, lamb or chicken dishes. If you think you'll have more than one glass (and I suspect any wine-sipping citizen might), just treat yourself to the bottle!

Do you enjoy Minervois? What selections are in your "cellar"?

A trip to Gascony for a killer white wine

Every time a wine from Gascony, France comes across the tasting table, Disney's Beauty and the Beast comes to mind. I have no idea why. I've never even been to Gascony! Perhaps there is something about the history of that region (think Vikings, Duchies, Joan of Arc and the 100 Years War) that transports me to Belle's little village.  Of course, it doesn't help this part of the world is most famous for one of my favorite evening night caps:  Armanac. I can just see myself sitting in the Beast's big leather armchair enjoying a little sippy sip before turning in.... One of the still wines I most appreciate from that area - a Peter Weygandt selection - is quaint like Belle's village, too. It is so in all the best senses of the word. Indeed, it is "skillfully" crafted, and delightfully "unusual in an interesting, pleasing, or amusing way". It has  easy-quaffing, mouth-filling, zippy pizazz.

What is this wine I speak of? Domaine de Cassagnoles' Gros Manseng. Gros Manseng is a white varietal grown exclusively in the southwest of France. As hinted above, it is better known for its role in the creation of Armagnac. But it is not often a major player in the world of still wines - or at least not in terms of export, I imagine.  (If my suspicion is correct, then kudos to Mr. Weygandt. He's got something special on his hands!)

The Domain Cassagnoles Gros Manseng is a delicious, paradox white. It strikes my fancy in the same way that some lesser known (or appreciated?) Italian whites appeal to me (e.g. Friulano, from Italy). It is a bit on the fuller, richer-textured side of the equation, but comes no where close to being a good alternative to a full bodied, oaked Chardonnay. (Egad!) It has too much lift in the mid palate and the fruit flavors are distinct. They are reminiscent of just-ripe, white peaches, quince and apricots - fruit-forward, but not juices-running-down-your-arm sweet. The citrus component is present just enough to provide that levity and zip, without being a grapefruit or lime-bomb of acidity often found in Sauvignon Blanc. A touch of minerality gives it a sense of place; you know it must be an Old World offering. This wine is like a little girl who's a bit more "grown up" than her peers - powerful and opinionated, but still having a welcome, youthful charm.

Ah... Much like Belle, no?

If you haven't sought out Gros Manseng, please do! It is such a versatile white ready for quaffing or pairing with fresh, spring/summer dishes.

Are you familiar with (still) Gros Manseng? How about Armagnac?

Chenin Blanc: the "other" blanc wine to know

Requests for Sauvignon Blanc recommendations have been coming pretty steadily as the temperatures have gotten warmer this spring. What I rarely hear a request for is Chenin Blanc. Sure, I get a request for Vouvray, a French village known for Chenin Blanc among those who "know", but Chenin seems more often overlooked by white wine seekers. Here's the 411 on this great grape: Recently I argued Albarino is the most versatile white wine; what readers found out was how terrifically versatile it is as a food wine. Chenin Blanc is perhaps the most versatile style of wine. It can be dry.  It can be sweet. And it can be still - or sparkling! Oh, the possibilities! It is also grown widely throughout the world, in the Loire Valley, France, South Africa and domestically in California.

The Loire Valley delivers my favorite Chenin Blancs. They have lovely stone fruits and citrus flavors - and a unique minerality I quite adore. But remember the French don't always label their wines by varietal. So if you see "Vouvray", "Savenniers," or often "Saumur" (where  Charadonnay is the other white grape permitted), grab a bottle! Better yet, head on in to your local shop and ask for a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc to give a swirl.

"Steen" is another name for Chenin Blanc you may find on a bottle of South African Chenin. These wines have more tropical fruit flavors and a distinct 'funk' you will either love or hate. (Note: "Funk" is a great, acceptable wine term that describes a special character in a wine. Funk can range from barnyard-like characteristics to wet wool, which is the one you're more likely to find in Chenin from South Africa. It's a love/hate thing, truly. Best to try it for yourself and see if you've been missing out on the South African Chenin fun.)

Chenin Blanc from California typically comes across the tasting table in the form of a blend, like 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Viognier. These blends are enticingly fuller bodied, and offer dramatic floral aromas. Not too shabby in their own right!

Either which way you slice it, Chenin Blanc pairs well with goat cheese, fish, grilled chicken or many vegetarian dishes. Heck - they are brilliant on their own, too! My favorite hosts always have a bottle at the ready because they are so versatile and guest-friendly. But I also often characterize them as "porch guzzlers" - where friends are entirely optional. Some things are too good to share!

Which Chenin Blanc offerings are your favorites? Any particular country that makes your heart beat a bit faster?

May's Wicked Wines Uncorked!

I can hardly believe it's already the second Monday in May - and time to unleash this month's Wicked Wines! These are some real treats to uncork through the ups and downs of the season change. Buying Tip: If you can't find the specific wines I suggest in your home market, consider the varietals (or blends) I've chosen and enlist your local wine buyer to make comparable recommendations.  These are some fun wines you won't want to miss!

Red wine when summer comes early

We've had a lovely bender of 80 degree temps here in Beantown. Love it. My soul is being nourished with Vitamin D, my grill is getting some much needed TLC, and I have an "excuse" to drink red wines even when it is warm out. This week I brought home a bottle of one of my all time favorite wines: 2006 Mas du Bouquet Vacqueras by Vignerons de Caractere.  Yes, I love a good Cote du Rhone. But the Vacqueras is my true happy place in that region. Almost 20 years ago Vacqueras got a little extra "credit" for the wines it produces, largely red wines made of the famous "GSM" trifecta: Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre; Vacqueras became one of (now) five AOCs in the Cote du Rhone. (By way of reference, there are over 100 villages within the CDR that do not have a special designation, or AOC status.)

Law mandates Vacqueras reds have at least 50% Grenache and at least 20% of either Syrah or Mouvedre. From there winemakers can blend in any one of the other 10 varietals permitted in the CDR, though you'll often discover Cinsault if a fourth grape is included in a particular red. Vacqueras is special because of its glacial soils as well as the hot, dry climate that is perfect for producing dense, structured, concentrated wines. And yet I find Vacqueras offerings tend to be a bit more approachable than its Gigondas or Chateneuf du Pape counterparts. (Ok, fine, you're working your way up the Wow Factor charts in "magical" qualities with those other two AOCs, but you also pay a few extra dollars accordingly.)

Vacqueras wines can certainly indulge your wild side or transport you to the great outdoors - they can offer tremendous earthy, herbaceous, rustic qualities, with trademark spice hitting a nice note on the finish. But more often I find those elements are more subtle, evolving behind the bigger fruit fiddles playing the main tune. These reds are big and bold - but soft and lush, too. The paradox enthralls my taste buds - AND more to the point, indulges my need to grill, grill, grill!

The Mas du Bouquet is a favorite of mine because of its tremendous consistency despite being the product of a co-op of winemakers. I think its consistency is actually an expression of place: the Manganelli Family has owned their vineyards for 100 years and many of the vines are quite old. That kind of history coupled with a dedication to sustainable, environmentally-friendly practices must set a certain tone and yield (no pun intended) particularly good fruit. That gives any winemaker a decent head start.

My tasting notes, you now demand? Fine, fine... When it is first opened, spices will literally tickle your nose distracting you from garnering more. But within as little as 20 minutes, its violet and lavender florals emerge, followed by aromas of black raspberries and plums. These fruits are juicy on the palate, with a touch of blackberry coming to fruition as well. A hint of leather, a hint of spice - and all is naughty and nice! The mouthfeel is what sends me to the moon, though - lush and supple with only gentle tannins becoming even softer as the wine continues to open. Lip-smacking goodness. Perfect with game, burgers, lamb - or even an earthy risotto dish, I imagine!

Which Vacqueras do you most enjoy? Or will you beginning your travels with the Mas du Bouquet?

Funny (and not so funny) Wine News: Italy, France and the U.S.

You know you're having a good morning of wine reading if you are both laughing and crying.... Wiping the cobwebs from my eyes yesterday morning, I found myself clicking on the link to a Decanter article about Italy's new "Drink-Driving" campaign. I read the brief article three times. It just didn't make good common sense! Allegrini is reportedly giving away a bottle of Palazzo della Torre to anyone who manages to drive sober after a night out. (How they are enforcing this, who knows, but....) Decanter stated this "Drink-Driving" campaign was not only to increase awareness about alcohol-related driving deaths but also to revitalize the slackening restaurant business. Great idea. Except isn't "Drink Driving" a bit of an oxymoron? Is the idea you are driving home with your free, uncorked bottle? No, that can't be it....

I had the great pleasure of meeting Marilisa Allegrini over lunch about a year and a half ago. She came to Boston to show her family's Veneto wares. They are lovely. She is lovely. It turns out she didn't initially commit to the family wine business, pursuing her own path first. I found her incredibly dynamic and market savvy. So I'm not surprised that Allegrini is collaborating on such a campaign. It just doesn't seem like Marilisa to get behind an idea called "Drink Driving".  And then it hit me.  A translation error must be at play! It isn't a "drink driving" campaign; it's a "drUnk driving" campaign. Yes, I'm laughing at myself too - but apparently I'm not the only one who didn't apply their own rational mind to the equation. If you read the comments below the article, you can see what I mean for yourself. I blame a busy week and a general lack of sleep... Too funny, too interesting not to share.

In other wine news, I was sad to see Duval-Leroy is giving aluminum Champagne stoppers a go. Champagne is sacred. I believe in cork when it comes to that one. Read for yourself, here.

Finally, if you're in California, Michigan or Atlanta, perhaps you've had the chance to taste wine out of a tap. If you're in New York City, perhaps you've heard it might be coming. The rest of us, well, we'll see when it all might come to fruition. Cool idea though. Check it out!

How do you feel about the alumunium stopper? What about wine on tap?

April's "Wicked Wines" uncorked!

Of course we're all trying to forget about snow what with Spring springing. But I really think wine is like a snowflake. No two bottles (even of the same wine) are alike! Wine is one of the few things constantly pushing me to explore something new - because I never know what amazing gem I might encounter once the bottle is uncorked.

Today I am thrilled to debut a new series here at Pour Favor: Wicked Wines! Every second Monday of the month, pop on over to Wicked Local to see what treasures I've found - and hope you will also give a sniff, swirl and sip for yourself!

Are you familiar with any of the wines I feature this month? What's your April "Wicked Wine" find?