thanksgiving wine ideas

For Thanksgiving you often think of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris as "perfect" pairings. And in fact, those are the varietals that I almost always seek out for the big day in part because they are such a good match but also because it is an 'excuse' to spend the bigger bucks on a great red Burgundy or some incredible Alsatian PG. But Thanksgiving really is an open-ended wine pairing holiday. Like chicken, turkey offers a clean slate. It's like the tofu of the meat world; it's something that needs dressing up to have a real identity. As such, wine pairing is more about all the sides you are going to prepare - cranberry sauce, earthy root vegetables like brussel sprouts or creamed white onions, or sweet potatoes, or your mother's fruit salad (with marshmallows) that you have every year because it's "tradition". Yes, the Pinot family can take the fun on home with sides like these. But the world really is your oyster!

Here are a few other ideas to consider - and when I say consider, I mean who all is coming to dinner, what their preferences might be and how to keep everyone happy (sometimes the real objective at your holiday gathering)....

Whites  ~

White Burgundy, or the more affordable alternative, Macon Chardonnay. The thing about these wines is that Burgundy (and the surround areas where you can spend a few less dollars) offers a full, fleshy and fruit-forward experience that won't weigh you down. They are gently oaked wonders, which means that you can still bring Chardonnay (a familiar grape) to the table without bringing a bottle of buttery, wooded, BIG juice, that won't quite work with such a big meal. Clean, pure, fruit and citrus lift are a winning combination.

Albarino. Albarino is an incredibly versatile option that will pair with anything. Its low alcohol, terrific, sea-like minerality and bright acidity keep your guests, and your overindulgence, in check, and also offers a little something unique and enjoyable beyond "the usual suspects". While gaining in popularity, it is still a grape that not everyone knows. Few are likely to have a preconceived notion of what to expect - and whether they will like it or not. Chances are - they will, too.

Reds ~

Malbec. Now this is a grape that people know and tend to have only very positive feelings about! And, it is also a grape that won't over-power the turkey and will certainly complement the earthier fare on your table. Seek out fruit forward, earthier styles (as opposed to the chocolatey, rich ones) for a real treat.

Zinfandel. Zin can be tricky because so many of them are so high in alcohol. That is dangerous both on an over-consumption level and also because it really can weigh you down. The juicy sweetness and slightly earthy nuance on offer (in great Zin) certainly pairs with the cranberry sauce. But for the Thanksgiving table that runs the 'non traditional' gamut in particular by delivering an Italian feast (and yet for folks that want a truly "American" wine to pair), this is an option to consider. My recommendation? In this case, spend the extra bucks to get a really well-made, more nuanced wine.

What will you be drinking next Thursday?

Pairing wine with pumpkin

Last weekend at a pumpkin carving fiesta a good friend asked me which wine I would pair with pumpkin. I was arm deep in pumpkin guts at the time (see image to the right) so I told him to keep an eye out for a post this week. And now here we are 3 days from Halloween with an ample supply of pumpkin around town - also known as the biggest opportunity to bust out your culinary genius. A post was all too necessary! Here are a few different ways you could go (and there are many...):

Pumpkin Rissotto w/Scallops

If you prefer a cheese-tastic take on rissotto, go for a buttery Chardonnay from California. If you prefer a lighter, savory risotto, go for a more mineral-driven, Alsatian white like Chasellas or even Pinot Blanc.

Roasted Pumpkin w/Root Vegetables

My brother in law makes a killer roast pumpkin - with all the root veggies and even tomatoes left to stew inside his prized Princess pumpkin. In this case, a fine option would be a Valpolicella from Italy. Savory, with stewed fruits and some nice structure, this wine's earthiness, fruit forward qualities and natural food-loving nature would be a treat. An earthy red from the Cote du Rhone would also work superbly.

Beef and Pumpkin Stew

Go to the mothership of all things beef: Argentina! Go team Malbec.

Pumpkin Pie or Pumpkin Bread

Any dessert made with pumpkin and seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg will love a great off-dry white. Think Riesling or Gewurtztraminer. Either of these will complement the savory brown spices in the dessert, yet the richness of the food will be cut by the great acidity and low-alcohol nature of the wine.

Which pumpkin dish is your favorite to make this time of year?

(aged) Bordeaux wine delights

Back to the wines we tasted at the Bordeaux wine dinner, folks who attended wanted to know my favorite in the mix. Here was the prestigious line-up to "choose" amongst: First Course: Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 2003 (Pessac-Leognan)

Second Course: Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste 1997 (Paulliac)

Second Course: Chateau Lynch-Bages 1997 (Paulliac)

Third Course: Chateau L'Arrosee 1986 (St. Emilion)

Third Course: Chateau Cos d'Estournel 1986 (St. Estephe)

Fourth Course: Chateua Doisy-Vedrines 2000 (Barsac-Sauternes)

Not bad, eh?

You can see from this list that we had a few charges, if you will, among the reds.  For example, the second and third courses were set up to allow us to sample wines from the same vintage, same appellation - followed by wines from same vintage but different appellations. What was so much fun was that each of the wines showed very differently from each other so you really could relish either the variation in styles Chateau to Chateau or in vintage years. I could write for days about their unique qualities. Truly, these were red wines to behold and when paired with the cuisine Chef meticulously prepared, they continued to deliver even more flavor and depth as you might expect.

But as so often is the case, it seems whatever is first in any given wine lineup gets lost. (There is probably scientific research that backs up my informal assessment accordingly.) After marinating in my experience for a few days, I knew for certain it was the Smith-Haut-Lafitte that I kept thinking about. There's just something so captivating about aged whites, particularly from regions that produce wines that can age. It's rich texture, still-singing acidity and solid core of fruit was just so appealing! Particularly delighting was the bruised apple meets cheese rind rusticity the wine delivered. You just can't get that kind of depth of tertiary nuance from a "fresh" wine. It is something magical that happens in the bottle when you can be patient enough to just... wait for it.

Do you enjoy white Bordeaux? Have you ever tasted an aged one?

Bottle variation - Fact or Fiction?

I had the great pleasure of attending an exceptional wine dinner featuring older vintages (1986, 1997, 2000, 2003) of Bordeaux wines last weekend. The company was delightful, the venue memorable (Menton, Barbara Lynch's latest venture), and the wine superb. Yes, I am happy to make such a blanket statement about the vin even though the group found there was some bottle variation among the wines on offer and there was some discussion of the merits of each selection. (More on the specific wines tasted in a later post....) I realized in retrospect that "bottle variation" is a topic that isn't really discussed in the mainstream. Folks might grab a bottle off the shelf - or buy a case of something they had a tremendously good experience with once - and discover the next bottle is "still good, but doesn't taste quite the same". This can happen for a number of reasons.

When dealing with smaller production wines meant to age like those I tasted Saturday, how the wine is handled and storage condition are critical to preserving a wine. Factors like exposure to heat and light and how well the cork holds up over time can significantly impact it. Back in the day when wineries conducted assemblage (the process of blending a wine) more organically, or when winemakers would siphon off certain amounts from each barrel and bottle each bottle individually, in/consistency bottle to bottle literally happened in the moment. But today and since roughly the 70s, stainless steel tanks allow winemakers to blend at once and then send the wine through a bottling line.  Among the more elite wineries with the funds/equipment et. al. necessary to create a consistent wine bottle to bottle and with a careful attention to detail regarding shipment, you can imagine things should be pretty dang consistent. True, you never know what happens behind the scenes as the wine is handled from importer, to distributor, to you. But still....

My take is that when all parts are created equal and particularly when we're dealing with high-end stuff that has the best chance of any to be treated properly in transition from winery to table, bottle variation is the result of something I call "bottle personality". Maybe I'm coining the phrase, maybe I'm not. But we in the trade largely agree that wines can show differently on any given day simply due to tides, atmospheric pressure change and the like. What's not to say a wine can't have an off day? It is an organic creature after all and, like us, can feel inclined to pout - or strut its stuff  - accordingly.

I'm not one for change in general, but I do find it absolutely fascinating in the case of wine. It's one of the reasons I'm in this business: the experience is almost always unique, and therefore uniquely fulfilling.

What's your experience with bottle variation?

Oktoberfest for wine lovers

Another wine I fell in love with all over again last summer was the Schoffit Chasselas, this time the 2008 vintage. Chasselas is a little known varietal grown from New Zealand to France, Switzerland, Germany and even due West as far as Portugal. Truth be told, I've only ever tasted Schoffit's attempt, an example from Alsace, France to be precise. Finally back in stock after nearly a year, I hurried to bring home the latest vintage at the tail end of last summer. I remembered the previous vintage offering a large helping of mouthfilling fruit - pears and melon and bananas, oh my! It also had a distinct minerality to it, which endowed a cleansing lift that seemed to cut through the seeming "fat" of the ripe fruit flavors. The 2008 vintage was even more exciting - more ripe and nuanced - so much so that I've been saving our discussion about it until we were fully in throws of October. Why? First, the aromas of  citrus blossoms, orange rind and even coriander lifted from the bowl of my glass as soon as I poured the Schoffit; rich, mouth-coating flavors of ripe banana and tangerine thrilled my tongue. These are smells and flavors I most often associate with the German wheat (weiss) beers I love so much. I find them enthralling for their texture and distinctness in the world. They give me a break from wine - but no less something to think about as I breathe in and then savor each sip. My second reason is that October brings more crisp fall days than hints of summer. The smell of leaves fills the air. I look forward to warming meals and fleshy, richer wines. The Schoffit Chasselas is precisely the kind of white I get super excited about.

So if you have a serious beer drinker in your life, or are one yourself, consider grabbing a bottle of this low-allocation, hard to find white, and dish up a plate of butternut or pumpkin squash risotto! You'll be thanking your lucky stars you did.

Are you familiar with Chasselas? Which German wheat beer is your Oktoberfest pick?

Summer highlights: under $9 (rose) wine

It seems like summertime is also a time when you're more likely to escape to the beach, or go camping. Or maybe you have the great opportunity to be the 'destination location' of your friends. Either way, it seems like your more likely to be going through a few bottles on a given night, rather than just the one - or more likely to be drinking more in general, night after night on your vacation, for example. So having a few delicious but affordable wines in your repertoire is kind of a necessity. Note: Cheap wine does not necessarily mean BAD wine. On the contrary, savvy wine shop's have a collection of wines they work even harder to find in the affordable price range. Because they won't compromise quality for price.

This summer there were two wines, roses no less, that came with me on vacation pretty regularly. Both were late-comers to Ball Square Fine Wine's rose collection. The first of the two, Les Trois Chenes, is a project of Chateau Moutete and is a crazy blend of Cinsault, Ugni blanc, Syrah, Merlot, Mourvèdre and even Rolle, for good measure. The result? A wine with surprising levity, authenticity (great minerality) and under-handed (in a good way) fruit. Possibly a perfect example of Provincial rose. For $8.99 especially, this was a no-brainer.

The second of the two is a curious wine from the Vinho Verde region of Portugal. No joke. And no surprise, it has a little bit of spritz. A regular cork screw will do it. But those little bubbles go a long way to delight your taste buds on a hot day. (I mean, come on, why else do people put tonic water or club soda in their cocktails? Subtle bubbles rock.) This wine, Adegas de Moncao Murhalas rose, is made from Porguese varietals Alvarelhao, Pedral, and Vinhao, the last of which is a fleshy red grape. Almost sweet red berries and watermelon flavors are lifted by brisk acidity and that little bit of spritz I keep going on about. It's fruit-forward sweetness made it great with spicy foods, too - or as desert itself after a big meal.

Suffice to say: happiness! I'm drinking them still while supplies last.

Which under $9 bottles captured your enthusiasm last summer?

Summer highlights: lobster and champagne

.....aaaannnnnddddd we're back! With the official first day of fall under our belts this week, it's time to begin chatting about wine again after some needed R & R. Of course, just because I haven't been blogging about wine doesn't mean I haven't been tasting it - or drinking it while on vacation or hanging out with friends.  Curious to hear about a few highlights? Today we'll whet your whistle with the "Best in Show" evening - a pairing of Champagne and Lobster!

For my birthday I received a bottle of Guy Larmandier Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs champagne. What better pairing is there than lobster? Quite possibly... none. (And when you are vacating on an island in New England, fresh lobster isn't so hard to find.) The wine was delicately, optimally frothed, with a lovely leesy texture. Some toast and a hint of almond and truffles on the nose led way to a giant helping of red apples, pears and lemon zest (all buoyed by it's very dry nature) on the palate.  All of these well integrated elements came to bear even more marvelously as we dug in.

Why?

Well, lobster is a meaty, succulent and almost sweet, not too fishy, creature of the sea. The acidity in well-made champagne cuts through the fleshiness of the meat and the richness of the butter you may be predisposed to dress it in. What about the ever-present wedge of lemon you are also inclined to squeeze atop the lobster? Think of champagne as the other part of the whole, as layers of innate citrus flavors marry with the lobster you've just tasted. And then there is the texture. Richness lifted by citrus/acidity create a delectable, mouthwatering result.

A tough one to beat, indeed!

What was your summer's wine or paring "Best in Show"?

What the blanc?! Part II

With August but days away, we'll be signing off for some needed R & R for a few weeks - perhaps with the occasional insight or newsflash to whet your whistle until we get back into the full swing of things after Labor Day. But we can't NOT go out with Wicked splash first! Head over to Wicked Local today to find out about two more "Blanc" varietals you won't want to miss this summer!  Giddy-up!

Which Chenin Blanc is your summer fav?

This week in the press

I always say "self awareness is half the battle". In this case I am aware that there can be a distinct disadvantage to reporting all the wine news that's fit to print on a Friday. By that point it's likely you've seen the really good fodder - which is why I try to throw in wine events or nerdier stuff you may be less inclined to come across in your own wine reading. But this week there were two articles I came across that were just too good not to pass on to my readers; and there is always the chance you haven't stumbled on these yet anyway. So here goes! The Wine Rack. Seeing is believing! No doubt if this new item takes off there truly IS something for everyone - as gag gifts or otherwise! Check it out.

On a more serious note - and wicked cool - it turns out the oldest wine on the planet can actually be found on the bottom of the ocean. Who knew? Check out this old school Champagne - and then report back:

Do the descriptive terms they use to talk about what this wine tastes like really inspire your confidence in the "excellence" of the appraisal?

What the Blanc? (Part I)

Two summers ago I put together a case of wine for a family gathering out on Block Island. I knew my sisters prefer their wines white in the summer – and as crisp and citrusy as they come (enticing labels never hurt either). Aiming to please, the case was filled with six bottles of white, two rosé and two reds. In that mix, a few were Sauvignon Blancs (the family “fan fav”) from different parts of the world and including a White Bordeaux (a blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc and a little Semillon) and a little Chilean number. But my goal was also to expand their wine varietal horizons, and so I threw in a Pinot Blanc and two Chenin Blancs for good measure. I figured the “Blanc” would be familiar, but different, and peak their curiosity. Discover "what the blanc?!" on Wicked Local today!